Whisky Tasting Record - Whisky Live Taipei/2011

Yamazaki, No Age Statement, Sherry Cask 2011, 48%.

Very clean and vibrant sherry note yet complex, even out runs some of high age profile sherry oak whisky. Some lovely juicy plums and prunes in the after taste (Good). NT$4,500

Yamazaki, No Age Statement, Puncheon Cask 2011, 48%.

Young with detectable apricots and ripened pineapple; round and clean in the mouth (Good). NT$2,500

Hibiki, 30 Y.O., Bottle #41503, 43%.

An outstanding dram, its complex aromas was absolutely stunning. It sets the milestone for all luxury blended whisky to match and redefined my definition of blended whisky (A must have before you died). NT$21,000

Yamazaki, 25 Y.O., 43%.

It posted an image of beautiful 40-45 year old Japanese lady wearing Channel No.5 in my head, very feminine in structure and aromas. Deep classic sherry oak but less some subtleness for the age given (Good). NT$25,000

Duncan Taylor, (Glenlivet), 39 Y.O., 1970/2010, Cask #2007, 50.9%.

Straight and clean with standard Glenlivet notes such as heather flower, apple, pear, sweet and fruity. Expect more layers and complexity from a 39 year old (Good). NT$8,400

Duncan Taylor, (Glen Grant), 34 Y.O., 1974/2009, 51.5%.

Soft and easy with cereal and wet soil/earthy notes, short aftertaste (Standard).

Duncan Taylor, (Bowmore), 26 Y.O., 1982/2009, Cask #85064, 54.9%.

Very fruity with orange flesh freshness and zest dryness, fruity perfume (almost like Moschino – I Love Love), a hint of peat and roasted rubber (Good).

SMWS 27.93, (Springbank), Cask #128, 2000, 51.1%.

Smoke tar, coffee bean and a lot of minerals. Classic Springbank structure in the background with extra dashes of tar and robustness (Good).

Whisky Tasting Record - July/2011

Duncan Taylor, Black Bull, 12 Y.O., 50%.

An outstanding blended with 50% malt whisky and 50% grain whisky. Distinctive but not heavy sherry tone, balance and smooth even at 50% alcohol strength. A good daily drink at a good price (Good). NT$950

Glencadam, Rare Selection, 1979/2010, 31 Y.O., Cask No#5467, 55.3% (C/S), Taiwan Limited.

Flavorsome at start with typical sherry notes (Raisin, X’mas fruit cake); however, the expectation of lingering after taste given the high age profile did not exist (Good). NT$8,888

Longrow, 10 Y.O., 55.6% (C/S), Takaji Wood Finish.

Full and intense with strong tannic dryness from oak barrel; oily and chewy sweetness with lengthy aftertaste. An enjoyable classic Campbeltown whisky with a bit of a twist from the wood finish (Recommended). NT$2,300

Laphroaig, 10 Y.O., 56.3% (C/S), Batch 2, EU/USA Edition.

Another good Laphroaig cask strength with mixture and well balanced peat and citrus fruits (in particular, grape fruit). Strength of aftertaste can be improved (Good). NT$2,500

Ardbeg, Supernova Stellar Release, 2009 First Edition, 58.9% (C/S).

Big, peaty and intense; image of BBQ with sense of smoky charcoal sizzling steak and sausages. Typical Ardbeg rough manly peat lingers in the mouth (Recommended). NT$3,200

Auchentoshan, 1999, 9 Y.O., 58.2% (C/S), Bordeaux Wine Cask Matured.

An interesting experience with St. Julien wine cask finish, but expected a bit more winey from this dram. Obvious citrus fruits and layers of woodiness at end. 3,600 bottles produced and released at the French National holiday, the Bastille Day (Good). NT$2,000

Auchentoshan, 1975, 35 Y.O., 46.9%.

Flavors were dominated by light and creamy butterscotch with vanilla. It is very gentle and smooth yet complex; however, the expectancy for a high age profile dram is always higher than mediocre (Good). NT$16,850

Nikka Yoichi, No Age Statement, 43%, Distillery Edition.

Light and easy to drink with some lemon grass note and fair balanced. Price for quality (Standard). NT$500

(Standard)-(Good)-(Recommended)-(Exceptional)-(A must have before you die)

秋風起，蟹腳癢

雖說農曆還不到九月份，但是中秋過完沒多久就已經感受到一絲涼意．想到秋天就不得不想到秋蟹，雖說當紅的陽澄湖大閘蟹有著幾近爆炸性的濃郁口感，但我還是鍾愛台灣處女蟳那柔順和諧的風味．而秋蟹料理的首選不外乎是看似最簡單卻極易出錯的”清蒸”，要能蒸到剛好透而不老可真得憑著爐火純青的功夫．

近年來，台灣飲食文化中”餐酒”的部分越來越受到重視；尤其是在西方豐富多變的酒食觀念衝擊下，中華文化中餐酒搭配的智慧也慢慢的得到了肯定．因此，想到秋蟹的美味就不得不提到黃酒；性寒的螃蟹吃了容易傷胃，而溫補的黃酒則能去寒活血以致身體不會為寒所傷．黃酒系列中我最喜歡的是陳紹，那股米糧發酵後的微酸在經過窖藏後變得更加沉穩．更精彩的是當蟹黃蟹肉的餘味還在口腔環繞的時候，一口溫過的十年陳紹所交織出來的溫順安詳．

話說中國會稽鑒湖一帶的紹興酒現在是越釀越好，而價錢也是逐步翻升；知名商家如古越龍山甚至出產標示60年年份的頂級黃酒．日本人愛喝紹興酒是眾所皆知的，早些年前日本人曾造訪浙江紹興為要學取紹興酒的製作方法；但因日本水質的不同讓他們最終未能成功．反觀台灣埔里酒廠，釀酒的水源來自於享譽”天下第一泉”的愛蘭甘泉；其水源自於中央山脈地下的河流且水質甜美．據說在日據時代時這水只能用來釀製進貢給天皇的”萬壽酒”．台酒的玉泉十年窖藏陳紹與玉泉罈裝特級陳年紹興都是不錯的選擇；再者，其價格實惠且取得容易．

另外值得一提的是9~10月號國際中文版的品醇客(Decanter)的封面故事－”台式經典海鮮餐酒搭配”，裡面其中的一道菜色則是喜宴的常客－紅蟳米糕．由五名國內業界的翹楚評比，最能讓這道菜增添色彩的有：西班牙的陳年Rioja、澳洲Adelaide Hill產區的Sauvignon Blanc與同區的Shiraz．倘若菜單上單只有螃蟹的話，一瓶Dry Riesling或是Chablis也都會是不錯的搭菜選擇．

台灣最佳法國侍酒師決賽

由法國食品協會(SOPEXA)主辦的2011台灣最佳法國侍酒師日前在台北市的花園大酒店展開了激烈的決賽．來自於台灣各大頂級餐飲業以及葡萄酒商的六位決賽者從二十多名初賽者脫穎而出．主辦單位慎重地邀請到前法國侍酒師協會主席(也是1992年侍酒師大師得主) Jean-Pascal Pauber先生，法國食品協會亞洲區總裁 Jean-Charles Crouin先生以及台灣侍酒師協會理事長洪昌維先生等多位國內外業界知名人士擔任評審．比賽的內容包含有：香檳侍酒專業度，葡萄酒與烈酒盲飲，紅葡萄酒侍酒專業度，餐廳酒單校正與改錯以及葡萄酒專業常識應用題．給予答題的時間並不充裕，只有2~6分鐘不等．題目的目的在於測試侍酒師的專業度以及臨場的應變能力，而更重要的則是要考驗其侍者從容不迫與優雅的態度．

在比賽的過程中不難看出每位參賽者緊張的心情，我們台下的觀眾數度為參賽者捏了把冷汗．再者，雖然說語言的隔閡實在不是一朝一夕可以養成，但是自信的表達絕對可以彌補不精確的發音；而答非所問也成了緊張乘上語言所衍生的產物．當然，參賽者的認真與努力是無可厚非的；可是難道我們台灣的文化與環境下就只能訓練出最好的＂技術人員＂嗎？當談到各國產區與酒評風味的專業至細枝末節的程度我們都可以應對如流且深奧精闢，但問到有關酒國的歷史文化人文素養與生活的時候我們卻常常只能吱嗚其詞或是很＂程式化＂的答復．

俗話說的好，為官三代才懂得穿衣吃飯．雖說早在漢朝就有葡萄酒釀製的文獻，並在唐朝時期有從吐魯番經絲路傳到中國本土的葡萄酒經商紀載；但畢竟葡萄酒不是中華文化的主軸，也因此在文化素養發展上沒有得到相對的提升．而在經過了二戰的摧殘與重建與70至80年代的經濟起飛後，我們這一代很有福氣的接上了這個機會．尤其是看到這次的參賽者都很年輕，平均年齡只有33歲而最年輕的僅26歲；相信葡萄酒以及侍酒師的文化在台灣有著很大的潛力與動力．

(原始資料來自於SOPEXA)

Fine Wine Investment – Over reacted or rational adjustment?

The recent instability of world economy caused by the Greek Debt is no longer a news headline. It has now been agreed by most of the economists that Euro 340 Billion credit default is only a matter of when. Hinted by the Fine Wine index (Liv-ex), the world economy seems to be on the edge of a second recession, or is it?

Liv-ex 50 has reached its year high at 28th June at 445.56 and has just breached the 400 mark today (21st Sept), with an almost 9% plunge in only three months’ time. Live-ex 100 dropped by almost 9.5% since July, and even the top scoring Bordeaux First Growths (Claret Chip Index) has decreased almost 9% in the past five months. Given the uncertainties of the world economy along with the non-progressive governments and greedy politicians, it would be difficult to convince any investors that it is a good buy-in point now.

The risk for the short term fine wine investment (between 1-3 years) is now relatively high. All major Liv-ex indices have just turned downhill from their historical highest, the Euro zone are now in the middle of their own financial crisis, USA trying to recovered their own aftermath but only by injecting themselves with endless newly printed Franklins. Given the historical data from the 2008 financial crisis, I predicted that Liv-ex still has another 20-30% down fall potentials in the year to come at latest.

It is true that Bordeaux can only produce a minute amount of Grand Crus a year and the yield for 2010 vintage has decreased by about 30%; furthermore, the older vintages will only be consumed and there would not be another year 1982. However, we have to assume that the fake replica do not existed, which we all know is impossible. The Grand Crus are now being traded like most of the commodity (e.g. gold) with transparency and market prices, where the release prices are determined by all those Chateau big shots who mostly lives in their Paris palaces.

It is also true that the demand from Chinese and the Indians is another good support for the market prices, but if anyone who can buy a case of 2010 Chateau Lafite at Euro 12,000, why would they pay Euro 14,000? The currency exchange also favors the dollar (or the non-Euro) holders. Euro/US traded at 1.36 in the middle of September this year, which dropped almost 9% from the year highest (1.494). The three short-term moving averages clustered and suggested that the future trend in the next quarter to come is downward or maintaining the level at best.

Euro zone economy is already on the edge, blurry 2012 market forecast, US dollars everywhere, dropped in Euro, plunge in short term Liv-ex indices, overly heated vintage 2010 release prices, soaring Chateau Lafite prices. I suggest that the short-term investors to lower their allocation and inventory and raise their cash level. Or perhaps look into vintage 2003 and 2005 because some of premiums are still under-valued. Of course, if one who is buying the fine wine for his or her own consumptions in the next twenty years to fifty years to come, then it is only the matter of picking what you desire, but make sure you covered the buy-in price for the next 3-5 years because it would be unpleasant to have the market turbulence ruining the pleasure of collection.

(original statistics: liv-ex.com, cnyes.com.tw - for personal use only)

寧靜，孤獨，釋放

雖然不是故意，但時間就是這麼的會捉弄凡夫俗子．Susan去參加大學同學婚禮，老爸老媽在羅東，朋友在紐西蘭看橄欖球世界盃，其他人… 應該都在用煤碳烤肉吧～哈！月圓人團圓的兔子節，兩個小時孤獨的自由別有一番風味．一個人騎在士林天母的大街上晃；老天對我們不錯，稍帶涼意的風和薄雲的天空，空氣中盡是烤肉醬與絲絲柚子果肉與皮酸甜帶苦的香氣．

嘴饞，私藏酒窖，雨聲街．空氣太安靜了，雖然已經是五歲的Wharfedale Diamond 9.3 +AMC的擴大機，但是音色還是那麼的精準甜美．田馥甄的＂My Love＂與＂還是要幸福＂，心情與味蕾先是催促著我的手去緊緊的握住Laphroaig 10 y.o. cask strength Batch 2；當＂還是要幸福＂節奏響起的時候再溫暖的去擁抱Remy Martin XO Excellence．原來如此，心細於過去才懂得如何珍惜未來；泥煤的初味下潛藏的是麥芽焦糖的甜．香甜沉穩的干邑卻躲著那容易被遺忘的丹寧苦澀；複雜交錯的幸福與分手的苦澀最後還是選擇了給予祝福．

該走了，Susan在等我了，首都客運的藍色大巴在等著我們．夜晚之初的微醺，緊繃糾結的心總算得到了釋放！